Monday, June 30, 2008

Reaching Rob in Peru: Contact Info

At the risk of another another pre-Peru post, I thought I should put down my contact information, in case you want to call... or something... incredibly crucial... is happening. I don't know.

In Chavin itself, we can be reached at:
  • 011-51-43-454240 in our lab (new number, just installed)
  • 011-51-43-454021 at the Hostal Inca (the lab is in the hostal, but the line is often congested)
  • 011-51-43-454042 (the archaeological site, days only -- only use if pressing)
In general, the idea is -- I call you. It's also probably cheapest that way. Also, though service will be abysmally slow, email works. Just don't expect my usual lightning responses.

Also, mail can be received, if necessary, at :
Proyecto Arqueologico Stanford
Chavin de Huantar
Ancash – Peru
Mail can arrive in as little as four days, but could easily take 3 weeks, or more. Please do try not to send packages; they probably will be held in Lima customs and be very difficult to retrieve -- apparently, the whole business is highly unreliable.

The INC (National Cultural Institute) in Huaraz at 43-72-1829 probably could probably also transfer emergency messages, albeit in Spanish.

If I'm wrong about it all, though, I'll see you in two months.

Saludos!
Roberto

Sunday, June 29, 2008

In Memoriam, we go racing

Bob loves his car. A lot.

My father, who, you will have noticed, I call Bob, lavishes his spare time, energy, and retirement dollars on his 1971 Camaro Z28. He's had it since America went to the moon, and it doesn't look like it's aged a bit. Slate blue, chased in chromed stripes, the interior still the same glossy leather it sold in. It usually lives in the third bay of the garage at home, propped trophy-like on red steel struts. One weekend a month, he'll slide under it on casters, wiggling his boots somewhere near the tailpipe. I'm not sure what he's been fixing for the past 40 years... but it seems important enough to keep it off the road. That is -- Bob has not, in living memory, freed the Z28 from the garage.



That, actually, is not strictly true. Friends & stalkers will probably remember the story of how I crashed my first car, which, properly told, starts with a father / son trip to Capitol Racetrack in Laurel, Maryland. Today actually marked the one-year anniversary of that trip, and the accident that happened later that day. Though the crash flipped my car, it was non-lethal (obviously?), and taught me a lot -- which I why we did it all again.

So, ten-o-clock this morning had Charlie and I in the S10, following Bob on a muggy Maryland morning down the interstate. We brought a camera along, because the Camaro's liberation is such a rare event, and snapped pictures from the window as we blocked traffic. The roads were dry, so Bob's car stood no chance of crashing this time, but it was still a little alarming to be behind him when he shifted. Due to some oversight in his multi-decade tinkering, Bob is missing his speedometer, and so passes 80 m.p.h. without a second thought.

Aside: try, some time, to catch a muscle car in a pick-up truck. Easy, isn't it?


We arrived at Capitol Racetrack at maybe 11:30 AM. A woman and her three-person support group took tickets at the foot of a massive hill, broken only by a wide road. Bob, cagey as ever, registered my brother and I as his pit-crew, and avoided the $10 spectator charge. Sweet -- free dragracing!

The air was thick with the throaty idle of muscle cars. As we tailed up the hill, he swung into another line, and let the engine throb on as he filled out some paperwork -- probably "please-don't-sue-us-if-you-mash-yourself-into-the-windshield" legal stuff, or something. Charlie and I couldn't restrain ourselves; this was too good. The line was filled with dozens of versions of Bob -- fifty-something men in prescription sunglasses and sleeveless shirts that advertised long-dead automotive brands. There was a little gathering a couple cars up, and as Bob finished up, we saw him start to edge towards his people, awkwardly looking away as he... happened upon their company. They swaggered, laughed, compared engines, interiors, keys... old men letting something younger out.

When he passed tech inspection and left the line, Bob swung into the race lanes, getting a spot for the drag race. Charlie and I parked, and sat under a spot of shade near the sponsored car show, and panted in the heat. An announcer lady came on the loudspeaker in a thick country accent: "As a courtesy to the churches down the road, we'll be delaying the race until after noon. Also, Chuck, call my mother." Charlie and I smiled to each other. We grabbed a few cokes apiece, and walked through the car show, pointing first as this, then at that shiny thing. Everything was overblown, overdone; the owner, lounging in a lawn chair with a cooler somewhere behind the trunk, was always more than happy to hop out and explain how he had tacked on 100, maybe 200 horsepower to the factory rating.


Every good thing comes to an end, though. The rain earlier in the week had, apparently, soaked the track thoroughly enough that racing was impossible. For the second time, Bob was thwarted from racing like he did when he was young. Still smiling, he packed it in, and we tailed him home, weaving on the Beltway, now and again, to catch a picture of him in his lane. The air behind him stunk of burned rubber and unburnt gasoline, rich and heavy and ancient. He sped all the way home, and really let it roar the closer we got to the house -- opening up a last volley for the hill before our driveway.

When we got home, he let the engine fade into a loose splutter, nudging the beast, in fits and starts, back into its cradle. With a few deft pumps of the jack, it was lifted back into the air, kept captive by small yellow chocks. There was nothing about it to suggest it had burned through a half our state and a full tank of gas. Bob wept his brow with his gray t-shirt, and said, after a wet cough, "I considered that productive... how 'bout you?" He smiled, and went inside, ready for lunch.

As for me -- it was really cool to see Dad so animated. He lives for his kids, the lawn, and his car, not necessarily in that order, so seeing him in his element was rewarding. It was also very strange to be celebrating a few anniversaries: today marked not only the day I crashed, but also the day before I left for Stanford. This time last year, I was getting ready for another big trip. Strange, as I pack the car with my stuff for Peru, that this should be the last thing I did with Bob. At least this time I kept all four of my tires on the ground.

[full picture album -- Picasa / Facebook]

Friday, June 27, 2008

Leaving, on a Jet Plane

It's about time. Monday, the last day of June, will mark the day I leave for Lima, Peru and begin helping out with Stanford's Archaelogical Dig at ChavĂ­n de Huantar. I'm sure people will ask how things are going; whether I've gotten lost yet, and so on... so I resurrected an old blog. You can see from the posts below that my output, so to speak, has been pretty anemic, but I'm working on that. Be sure to check back during July and August to see how things are going, or just look at the pretty pictures. I'll do my best to be faithful, amigos, but if my past is any indication, I'll fail miserably.

Preparations!

Because the site is high in the Andean mountains and relatively isolated from the rest of Peru, many of our gear has to be bought in the U.S. -- email after email to our group members ironed out the thorny details of our luggage, so that we could sally forth to the hardware store. Today Charlie and I hit up the two most crucial locations: Home Depot
(that Canaan of Suburbia), and the Cockeysville Public Library (which, incidentally, circulates about 9.4 books per capita in MD, the 10th most in America). At Home Depot, I picked up a few essentials: gloves, knee pads, a trowel, a line level, and a tape measure (metric). The library was far more fun - I was finally able to stock up on books for the next month-and-a-half. A list of the selected:
Non-fiction, poetry, humor, travel, literature: a good mix. I may even be more excited for the plane ride than the destination - a good load of books will do that to a man.